Epoxy Tips

Video

Summary

This video just walks through a bunch of tips and tricks for working with epoxy.

Choosing an epoxy

First, table top epoxies. These often pour a bit thicker, but they are not design for deep pours. If poured too deep, they are likely going to crack.

Even among deep pour epoxies, different products can handle different depths. Be sure to read the labels to understand their limits and characteristics.

The deeper pour epoxies often cure slower so that bubbles can escape before it hardens. The creator notes that some of his deep pour epoxies took almost a full week to cure.

Even standard epoxies have critical characteristics that might separate appropriate uses. Be sure to read the label to confirm that it is an appropriate epoxy for your project.

Working Temperature

Epoxies will note their working temperatures as well as their storage temperatures. The most likely effects of working with the epoxy at a cooler temperatures is the set and cure time may increase dramatically. Additonally, the cured epoxy may not be as clear.

Building a form

Deeper pours generate more heat when the epoxies is curing. A melamine surface (the white shelf type boards), may melt from this heat. If it does, it may mix into the epoxy, causing a deeper impact.

MDF is a nice choice because the boards are flat and inexpensive.

For both melamine and MDF, one should cover the boards with a tape to keep the epoxy from sticking to the boards. Tyvek (a roofing tape) is a good choice. Standard clear packing tape is another good choice.

Make the form taller than your expected pour depth.

Rather than nailing the form, use screws so the forms can be reused. Dowels or biscuits can be used to maintain more accurate alignment of boards. Especially as a form is used over time since the screw holes will tend to get looser.

Caulk edges of your form. Caulk edges of your work to prevent epoxy from covering a surface that does not need to be covered.

Items in a deeper pour may float. Make sure that everything will be held down tightly.

Make sure the form is level and clean. Eliminate dust!

Mixing

Use a very clean mixing paddle (that attaches to a drill) or stick when mixing a clear pour. Also be careful with lighter colors where any foreign particle that might disloge from a paddle/stick might leave a visible defect.

The creator notes that he likes powder pigments more than liquid colorants.

The creators preference for powder pigments stems from 2 factors: easier color matching and less risk of impacting the characteristics of the epoxy. Too much liquid may result in a weaker material.

Have some acetone on hand for any cleanup that might be needed while mixing or pouring. As an added note, I always set out a bunch of paper towels that have already been torn from the roll. That way if I have to clean something up, I don't have to fumble with the whole roll.

Cover surfaces with plastic. Adding a note to this, epoxy will get everywhere, I've learned to get thicker plastic to cover the floor because I've had thiner plastic tear and ended up with epoxy stuck to the floor that was very difficult to remove.

If you are going to use a torch to burst bubbles, get one that automatically lights. You don't need more things to fumble with when things are likely time critical and possibly a complete mess.

Adding a personal note, to pop bubbles, I use a heat gun, it works well, but you need to make sure you maintain control of the extension cord. While you are going around yoru piece, its easy to drag it through your work or through epoxy on the floor. When this happens, that epoxy is not going to get smeared everywhere you don't want it.

Surface Prep

Flatten your pieces. Once epoxied, you will not be able to run it through a planer.

Thoroughly sand wooden pieces before coating with a clear or translucent epoxy. Scratches will be visible in the same way they will be visible if finishing with a varnish.

Polish clear pours prior to applying a clear coat. This is noted around 15:30. I thought one needed a rough surface for a later coat to ensure a good bond. I'm sure the creator is more experienced than me, but please review this specifically if it matters to you so that I don't lead you astray here because I didn't fully understand the creators discussion around this.

Finishing

The creator discusses various surface finishing products. I recommend watching this segment. This segment starts around 16:15.

Final Notes

This video is packed with inforomation to help you produce extrodinary results. I recommend watching it. I like to review my notes before I do a project because its a quick way to make sure I'm not forgetting anything.